Opening in the middle of a pandemic (August, 2020) was no picnic for even a seasoned Italian restaurateur like Pedro Ulloa. But his trattoria in The Cove shopping center in Tiburon is the little restaurant that could, quickly becoming part of the neighborhood. “People tell me all the time that they feel at home here,” says Ulloa, who got his start as a dishwasher, working his way up to Chef, Partner and General Manager at restaurants including San Rafael’s long-running Cafe Arrivederci.
Pandemic be damned – when it was time to run his own show, Ulloa made it happen. He credits the success of his family-owned restaurant to listening to his customers. “It’s more important than ever,” Ulloa says.
Though Via Piccola is not known as a seafood house, the top-selling dish at lunch and dinner is Salmon Piccata. Poached gently in white wine, finished with buttery lemon and caper sauce, the fish is served with vegetables, potatoes, or pasta and a wedge of lemon.
The success of Fettuccine Alla Viareggina, Filloto De Sole Dorato, and Gamberoni Alla Livornese help explain why most people order pesce.
If seafood is not your thing, no worries.
Chef makes a 24-hour fermented “light sour” pizza dough, the base of many a Margarita ($19) or Pepperoni pizza and Spaghetti Carbonara with just the right amount of pancetta and onion to satisfy even the pickiest nonna. Of course there is Tiramisu, but we are suckers for the Carrot Cake with a pull of espresso at dessert.
Chef makes sure that each day brings a few specials.
Portobello Ravioli – house made pasta stuffed with portobello, ricotta and parmesan, swaddled in a creamy mushroom sauce and a drizzle of truffle oil makes regular appearances. So, too, Cannelloni stuffed with chicken and veal, or Lobster Ravioli, its cream sauce brightened with orange liqueur, cherry tomatoes and arugula. Or just tell your server if you have a suggestion – it may appear as a future Special.
One of the things Pedro takes the most pride in is his lovely staff.
Antonio has worked with Ulloa for 25 years, much-valued for his recall of a customer’s likes and dislikes. Cipriani (aka "Chippy") one of many staff Ulloa brought over from the former Milano, has “been with the building” for 32 years as a server. At the bar, Angel is always available to whip up your favorite cocktail. Many customers ask to sit in Anita’s or Valentino’s sections, their kindness a testament to the community spirit at Via Piccola. Behind the scenes, Piccola’s chef (who prefers to remain unnamed), is the secret to the menu’s consistent Italian flavors. “He’s been with me for 31 years,” says Ulloa.
Via Piccola’s bar is something of a community space. Singles and couples enjoy the high-backed barstools. Bees Knees cocktail in hand, the conversation flows naturally between regulars there for the latest buzz and stop-overs enjoying a chat with Angel before moving onto a table.
“Guests like to linger at the bar,” Ulloa confirms. Perhaps they are fond of Angel’s Passion Drop? Made with passion fruit nectar and Weber Ranch vodka distilled from Blue Weber agave, the tajin rim balances the drink’s fruit-forward flavor. And if your love/hate of tajin doesn’t get a cocktail conversation flowing, Angel has a few other ideas….
