“Maru” can mean many things in Japanese – “circle” and “purity” are but two. After three decades at now-closed Sushi To Dai For, Chef Jun Takeda has come full circle, crafting an intimate Japanese restaurant that pays homage to the culinary traditions of his island home in Kyushu. It started with the sake list where Niwano Uguisu Kurougu 45 Daiginjo and Niwano Doburoku, a very cloudy style of lower alcohol sake, are sourced from Fukuoka, a city in northwestern Kyushu.
Fresh wasabi from Half Moon Bay and nikiri, a sweeter soy sauce, are hallmarks of the sushi menu, which includes nigiri and handrolls as well as sashimi and omakase plates. There’s soup and salad, too, and a daily offering – Obanzai – prepared in the tradition of home cooking. It’s the cuisine of home for Takeda that feels new and fresh in Marin.
Executive Chef Angelica Duarte took over the stoves of one of Marin's most iconic restaurants in September, bringing with her the warm spirit of her time at Insalata’s and a fresh look at the American menu. “The miso-glazed salmon and filet mignon with peppercorn-brandy demi-glace are already best sellers,” says General Manager Charlie Roberts.
The latest Paseo iteration honors its chophouse history with the filet and other meaty fare such as a Duroc pork chop with grainy mustard sauce and lamb chops with quinoa and feta but is more pescatarian-forward. Poke Tuna Bites, Pan-Seared Scallops with confited fennel, and Halibut Ceviche with jicama and cucumber hint of the menu’s shifting intentions. Look for more menu additions as the season’s change.
At the bar, situated across the alley from the kitchen, bartender Shelly Erber runs the show. With $10 Margaritas and Old Fashioneds, $6.50 plates of Paseo chicken wings and $8 plates of halibut ceviche, “Shelly’s Happy Hour” draws cheers from fans of dining early. A larger bar menu of Wagyu sliders, chicken salsa verde arepas, and air-fried artichokes is available no matter where in the restaurant you choose to sit.
Now that the weather is finally warming up, expect more chatter about Paseo’s patios. Small tables and chairs dot the numerous nooks and crannies of the serpentine space, perfect for a moment’s pause or an intimate canoodle, but the larger patio, warmed by fire pits and surrounded by couches, is a lovely place to enjoy the laid-back ambiance and a glass of wine, as well as live jazz in the courtyard on Thursdays.
Detroit native Joe Garfola (he’s a 10-Miler) ditched a career in satellite networking and software engineering with the Marine Corps and Google to bring his hometown’s favorite pizza style to Greenbrae’s Bon Air Shopping Center. Traditionally made in a 6x8” mechanics tin, Garfola uses 9x9 tins. The sauce? For true Detroit-style, that goes on top. “To protect the cheese,” says Garfola, who sources Grande cheese from Wisconsin for authentic flavor. Customers can also choose to put the sauce on the bottom or double it.
Baked in wide Middleby Marshall ovens, the pies emerge full of deep air bubbles, the better to support up to four toppings. More than that, Garfola says, “the dough smushes too much.” The hot seller since their late winter opening is ham and pineapple. Pepperoni and cheese is a close second. Chicken wings and breadsticks – cinnamon sugar, cheese or standard – with sweet and savory dipping sauces round out the menu. While you wait, play X-men or Donkey Kong in true 80’s fashion, on a bench in front of an ATM-like machine. Games are free for all customers!
Big, messy Italian sandwiches inspired by East Coast Italian delis landed on the downtown Mill Valley restaurant’s menu in late April. D’Angelo’s Focacceria brings an elevated yet approachable take on Italian street food, ideal for locals on their lunch break, hikers coming off the trail, or anyone seeking a satisfying sandwich made with love and tradition.
House-baked focaccia cradles traditional fillings like pork meatballs with fire-roasted tomato sauce and mozzarella. A breaded chicken cutlet with house made sauce, mozzarella, and just enough basil to bring it together is the key to top-selling The Parm Father. Loaded with Italian charcuterie – prosciutto, soppressata, and mortadella – then sozzled with champagne vinaigrette and Californicated with lettuce, tomato and mustard, The Italian Stud is a meat lovers delight. “You can’t find a sandwich like this in Marin,” says proprietor Luigi Petrone. Other menu favorites include the The Amalfi Bite (prosciutto, mozzarella, tomato and basil, finished with balsamic vinegar, served on home baked focaccia); and The Brothers Told Me (porchetta, provolone, caramelized onions, avocado, n’duja aioli. Served on home baked focaccia).
Big enough for two (or one hungry teenager), sandwiches arrive on a wooden board or wrapped in wax paper for takeout. Don’t forget the napkins.
After opening the first Humbowl in Berkeley in 2022, co-owners Eric Wright, Miles Klein, and Sam Winter opened the second of their fast-casual, health-aware restaurant in downtown San Rafael in April. “We want to make healthier eating more accessible,” says Wright, a Novato native. At breakfast, bowls of fried rice with organic eggs and tamari vinaigrette and potato hash with avocado and cauliflower and ginger-cilantro sauce lean into balanced eating with plentiful greens.
The same fresh veggie- and protein-forward approach seasons the offerings at lunch and dinner when a Thai Curry Bowl with chicken, sauteed, certified organic leafy greens, mushrooms and coconut curry, or Togarashi 2.0 bowl with shrimp, zucchini and broccoli are available. Prices range from $12-14. “This is what I want to eat,” says Wright, who built four ounces of protein and vegetables into each dish. Though Wright says 80% of the business is currently takeout, customers visit just for the mint and lemon-infused water and cold brew from Mr. Espresso.
In the same brick-walled space where Vin Antico once held sway, a refreshed Italian-ish, California Cuisine approach from chef de cuisine Dan Costa and sous chef Kendall Mazet now reigns.
That translates to a tight, changing menu with plates like shiitake cappelletti with apple mostarda and buerre monté, steak frites with red wine ragu, and a cocktail named for a Fellini movie (Boccaccio 70).
Father and son Heffernans, both named Mike, co-own Vin and Oliver’s Pizzeria upstairs.
